Cedar Sauna Wood

Western Red Cedar is the traditional sauna wood in North America — and for good reason. It naturally resists decay, repels insects, doesn't secrete resin at sauna temperatures, stays cool enough to sit on comfortably, and fills the room with a warm, aromatic scent that most people associate with "sauna." Its tight, vertical grain and consistent reddish-brown color make it one of the most visually striking options for walls, ceilings, and benches. All of the cedar sauna wood we carry is sourced from ProSaunas — vertical grain, clear grade A+ quality with no knots, consistent color, and milled specifically for sauna applications.

Not sure which wood species to choose? Read our comparison: Thermowood vs. Cedar: Which Is Better for Your Sauna? or browse our complete guide to Best Sauna Wood Types.

Wall & Ceiling Cladding

Cedar wall cladding comes in tongue-and-groove profiles that interlock for a seamless, gap-free (or intentionally gapped) surface. We carry three profiles — choose based on the visual style you want for your sauna interior:

1×4 V-Gap — The classic profile. A small V-shaped groove forms at each joint between boards, creating clean shadow lines that define each board. Coverage is 3" per board (the interlocking tongue reduces the visible face). This is the most traditional look and the most popular choice for sauna walls and ceilings.

1×6 V-Gap — Same V-groove profile in a wider board. Coverage is 5" per board. Wider boards mean fewer seams, a more modern aesthetic, and faster installation. Works particularly well on ceilings and large wall surfaces where you want a less busy appearance.

1×4 Nickel Gap — Instead of a V-groove, a small flat-bottomed gap (about the width of a nickel) separates each board. Produces a contemporary, clean-line look with subtle shadow gaps between boards. Same 3" coverage per board as the 1×4 V-Gap, just a different visual profile. Increasingly popular in modern sauna builds.

Bench Material

Cedar bench boards are milled smooth on all sides (S4S) for a comfortable, splinter-free surface against bare skin. The key difference from wall cladding is that bench material has no tongue-and-groove profile — boards are laid flat across bench support frames with small gaps between them for air circulation and water drainage.

1×4 Bench (Smooth) — Standard bench board, smooth all four sides. Ideal for bench tops and backrests where skin contact is primary.

1×4 Bench (Rough 1 Side) — Smooth on three sides with one face left rough-sawn. The rough side can face down or be used intentionally for a more rustic, textured aesthetic.

1×6 Bench — Wider bench board for faster coverage. Fewer boards per bench means fewer gaps and a slightly different visual rhythm.

2×4 Bench — Thicker bench material for heavy-duty bench construction. The extra thickness provides additional structural rigidity and a more substantial feel. Often used for the bench top surface on custom builds where you want a beefy, solid appearance.

2×12 Bench — Wide, thick plank for single-board bench faces or custom furniture-style builds. A single 2×12 can serve as an entire bench seat in narrow saunas. Also used for shelving, changing room benches, and custom sauna furniture.

Structural Support

4×4 Support Material — Heavy structural cedar for bench support frames, posts, and any load-bearing application inside the sauna. Matches the color and grain of your wall cladding and bench material so the structure looks intentional when visible.

Trim & Molding

Finish your cedar sauna build with matching trim and molding — inside corner molding, square molding, right-angle molding, and flat molding in cedar and other species. Trim covers seams where walls meet ceilings, floors, and corners for a polished, professional finish.

Why Western Red Cedar for Saunas?

Cedar has been the go-to sauna wood in North America for decades because of a combination of properties that few other species match. It's naturally rot-resistant thanks to high levels of thujaplicin, a compound that fights fungal decay — no chemical treatment needed. It's dimensionally stable, meaning it expands and contracts less than most woods when subjected to the extreme heat-and-moisture cycles of a sauna. It doesn't produce the sticky resin that pine and spruce release at high temperatures. And it stays relatively cool to the touch compared to denser hardwoods, which matters when you're sitting on it at 180°F.

The distinctive aroma is another major draw — cedar's scent is one of the first things people notice when they enter a cedar-lined sauna. It's a warm, woodsy fragrance that many sauna users consider part of the experience itself. Over time the scent does mellow, but a light sanding of the walls can revive it.

For information on maintaining your cedar, read our guide: How to Finish Wood in a Sauna.

Cedar vs. Other Sauna Woods

Cedar is the classic choice, but it's not the only option. Thermally modified woods (thermo-aspen, thermo-spruce, thermo-radiata pine) offer darker tones and even greater moisture resistance through heat treatment. Natural aspen and alder provide lighter, neutral colors for a Scandinavian aesthetic. Each species has its own visual character, durability profile, and price point.

Browse all species: All Sauna Wood · Thermo-Aspen · Thermo-Spruce · Thermo-Radiata Pine · Aspen · Alder · Hemlock

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I calculate how much cedar I need?

Use our Sauna Wood Calculator — enter your room dimensions and it will estimate the board footage needed for walls, ceiling, and benches. Remember that tongue-and-groove coverage per board is less than the nominal board width (3" of coverage per 1×4 board, 5" per 1×6 board) because the tongue is hidden in the groove.

What's the difference between V-gap and nickel gap profiles?

Both are tongue-and-groove profiles. V-gap creates a small V-shaped groove at each board joint — a traditional, familiar look. Nickel gap creates a small flat-bottomed channel (about 1/16" wide) between boards — a more contemporary, clean-line appearance. Same installation method, same structural performance, just a different visual style.

Can I use cedar for both walls and benches?

Yes — many builders use cedar throughout. Wall cladding has a tongue-and-groove profile for interlocking installation. Bench boards are flat (no tongue-and-groove) and laid across a support frame with gaps between boards. Both come from the same ProSaunas clear grade A+ cedar stock, so the color and grain match.

Does cedar need to be sealed or treated?

Inside a sauna, most experts recommend leaving cedar untreated — the natural oils in the wood provide protection, and finishes can off-gas at sauna temperatures. If you want to apply a finish for bench surfaces that see heavy use, use only a sauna-specific product like sauna wood oil that is rated for high heat. Never use polyurethane, varnish, or standard wood stains inside a sauna. Read more: How to Finish Wood in a Sauna.

Is cedar better than thermowood?

It depends on your priorities. Cedar offers a natural aromatic scent, warm reddish-brown tones, and proven rot resistance without any treatment. Thermally modified woods (thermo-aspen, thermo-spruce) offer darker colors, even lower moisture absorption, and a more contemporary Scandinavian aesthetic — but without cedar's natural aroma. Both are excellent sauna materials. Read our full comparison: Thermowood vs. Cedar for Saunas.

Shop more: All Sauna Wood · Trim & Molding · Sauna Wood Oil · Wood Calculator · DIY Sauna Room Kits · Sauna Heaters