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The sauna floor is the one surface you're always in direct contact with — bare feet, wet conditions, and temperatures that fluctuate between ambient and 170°F+ with every session. It needs to be waterproof, non-slip, comfortable underfoot, and easy to clean. Unlike walls and benches (which are built permanently), the best sauna flooring options are removable so you can clean underneath and let the subfloor dry between uses. We carry three types of sauna flooring that cover the range from traditional wood to modern interlocking tile systems.
For a deeper dive into all flooring material options (including concrete, tile, and thermowood), read our guide: Best Floor Material for Your Sauna.
Scandia Red Cedar 2'×2' Duckboard — The traditional sauna flooring choice. Each panel is a pre-built 24"×24" grid of Western Red Cedar slats raised on sleepers, creating an elevated walking surface that keeps your feet above any standing water. Overall thickness is 1 3/8". The cedar is naturally rot-resistant and aromatic, matching cedar wall cladding if you're building a traditional cedar sauna interior. Panels are completely removable — lift them out to clean the subfloor underneath, then set them back in place. Made by Scandia Manufacturing.
Duckboard is best for traditional (Finnish) saunas where you pour water over sauna stones and want the classic wood-underfoot experience. The raised design allows water to drain freely beneath the walking surface while keeping feet warm and comfortable. Place panels in the walking area between benches and the door — duckboard under the benches is optional but gives a more polished, finished look. Important: duckboard should sit on a non-permeable subfloor (concrete, tile, or sealed surface). Carpeting or plywood are not suitable underneath.
Tru-Tile PVC Interlocking 12"×12" — Rigid PVC tiles that snap together to form a continuous, non-slip surface. Each tile is 12"×12"×9/16" thick. The interlocking edges hold tiles in place without adhesive, and the material is fully waterproof. PVC is comfortable underfoot (softer than concrete or ceramic tile) and won't get dangerously hot at sauna temperatures. These tiles are commonly used in commercial saunas, pool decks, and locker rooms — environments with constant moisture and heavy foot traffic. They're also popular for DIY sauna builds because installation is instant: snap tiles together, cut edges to fit with a utility knife, done.
Bathology Vinyl Interlocking 12"×12" — Flexible vinyl tiles with a textured, non-slip surface pattern. Similar interlocking system to the Tru-Tile but made from a slightly more flexible vinyl material rather than rigid PVC. The perforated design allows water to drain through the tile surface while maintaining grip. Lightweight, easy to cut to size, and simple to remove for cleaning. By Bathology.
Cedar duckboard is the choice if you want the traditional sauna look and feel — warm wood underfoot, aromatic cedar scent, and a classic aesthetic that complements wood-paneled walls. It's the most natural-looking option and the one you'd find in Finnish saunas. The tradeoff is that wood requires more maintenance over time (periodic cleaning, occasional sanding if the surface roughens, and eventual replacement after years of heavy use). Best for residential saunas with moderate use frequency.
PVC or vinyl tiles are the practical, low-maintenance option. They don't absorb moisture, won't develop mold or mildew on the tile surface itself, and can be power-washed or scrubbed without worrying about the material. They're the better choice for commercial saunas, high-use residential saunas, or anyone who prioritizes minimal upkeep. The Tru-Tile is more rigid (better for high-traffic commercial settings); the Bathology is more flexible (easier to conform to uneven surfaces or cut around obstacles).
Many sauna builders use a combination: cedar duckboard in the main walking and seating area for the traditional feel, with PVC tiles near the door entry or in changing areas where traffic and moisture are highest.
All three flooring options require a proper subfloor underneath. The sauna floor itself (the structural surface below your flooring) should be a non-permeable, level material — typically concrete (sealed), ceramic tile, or vinyl sheeting. Never build a sauna over carpet, unsealed plywood, or bare wood subfloor, as trapped moisture will cause mold and structural damage. If your sauna has a drain (recommended for traditional saunas where water is poured on stones), slope the subfloor toward the drain so water doesn't pool. The removable flooring sits on top of this prepared surface.
For traditional (Finnish) saunas where you pour water on stones to create steam, a floor drain is recommended. It removes excess water and makes cleaning easier. For infrared saunas (which produce sweat but don't involve water pouring), a drain is not required — a towel on the bench catches most moisture, and the flooring handles the rest. For commercial saunas of any type, a drain is typically required by code.
Ceramic or porcelain tile works as the subfloor (the structural surface) — it's waterproof and durable. However, tile alone is cold underfoot and can be slippery when wet. Most sauna builders install tile as the subfloor, then place removable duckboard or interlocking tiles on top for comfort and safety. The combination gives you a waterproof structural surface with a warm, non-slip walking surface above it.
Each Scandia duckboard panel covers 2'×2' (4 square feet). Measure the walking area of your sauna floor (typically the space between the benches and the door) and divide by 4. For example, a 6'×4' walking area needs six panels. You don't necessarily need to cover the area under the benches, though many builders do for a cleaner look.
For duckboard: lift panels out, sweep or vacuum debris, scrub with warm water and a mild cleaner (one part apple cider vinegar to four parts water works well), rinse, and let dry before replacing. Avoid harsh chemicals or steel wool. For PVC/vinyl tiles: pop tiles apart, scrub with warm soapy water or a mild disinfectant, rinse, and snap back together. Both types should be removed periodically to clean the subfloor underneath and allow it to dry completely.
Thermally modified wood (like thermo-aspen or thermo-spruce) can be used to build custom flooring by screwing boards directly to the subfloor. This creates a permanent (non-removable) wood floor that matches thermowood walls and benches. It's a clean, high-end look — but the downside is that you can't lift the floor to clean underneath it. Read about all options: Best Floor Material for Your Sauna.
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