Proper insulation is the single biggest factor that separates a sauna that heats up fast and holds temperature from one that wastes energy, damages its own structure, and disappoints every time you fire it up. Whether you're building a DIY sauna on a budget or investing in a full custom build, understanding insulation materials, R-values, vapor barriers, and proper wall assembly order will save you thousands of dollars in energy costs and prevent structural failures that can ruin your project entirely.
This guide covers everything you need to know: the three main insulation types (mineral wool, fiberglass, and rigid foam), R-value targets based on your climate zone, the correct wall assembly order from studs to tongue-and-groove paneling, and the most common mistakes that even experienced builders make in sauna environments.
Why Sauna Insulation Is Different From Standard Home Insulation
A sauna is not a normal heated room. Traditional saunas operate between 160°F and 220°F with periodic bursts of high humidity when water hits the heater stones. That combination of extreme heat and moisture creates conditions that standard home insulation practices simply cannot handle.
In a typical home, moisture travels from the warm interior toward the cold exterior. In a sauna, the temperature differential between the hot room and the surrounding structure is far more extreme—sometimes exceeding 150°F. This means moisture drive is aggressive, and any gap or failure in the vapor barrier allows steam to penetrate insulation and condense inside the wall cavity. Once that happens, you get mold, rot, and insulation that has lost its thermal performance.
Sauna insulation must accomplish three things simultaneously: retain intense heat so your sauna heater works efficiently, block moisture from reaching the wall framing, and withstand repeated thermal cycling without degrading. Standard residential insulation approaches only address the first of these concerns, which is why sauna-specific knowledge matters so much.
Insulation Materials Compared: Mineral Wool vs. Fiberglass vs. Rigid Foam
There are three insulation materials commonly used in sauna construction, and each has distinct advantages and trade-offs. The right choice depends on your budget, climate, wall construction method, and whether you're building an outdoor sauna or converting an indoor space into a sauna.
Mineral Wool (Rockwool / Stone Wool)
Mineral wool is the gold standard for sauna insulation, and it's what most professional sauna builders in Finland and North America specify for custom builds. It's manufactured from molten basite rock spun into fibers, creating a dense, semi-rigid insulation board or batt.
Mineral wool has a melting point above 2,000°F, which means it will never degrade from sauna temperatures—even directly behind your heater wall. It is naturally hydrophobic, meaning it repels water rather than absorbing it. If moisture does reach mineral wool, it dries out without losing its structural integrity or R-value. Fiberglass and foam cannot make this claim.
R-value per inch for mineral wool batts runs approximately R-3.7 to R-4.2 depending on density. Semi-rigid boards (like Rockwool ComfortBoard) are slightly lower at around R-4.0 per inch but offer easier installation on flat surfaces. A standard 2x4 stud cavity filled with 3.5 inches of mineral wool gives you roughly R-15, which is the baseline target for most indoor sauna walls.
The main downside is cost. Mineral wool typically runs 20-40% more expensive than fiberglass batts for the same R-value. However, for a typical sauna room (which is relatively small), the total cost difference is often under $100—a negligible amount relative to the overall project budget.
Fiberglass Batts
Fiberglass is the most widely available and affordable insulation material, and it can work in a sauna—but only with careful installation and a properly sealed vapor barrier. Standard unfaced fiberglass batts (like Owens Corning R-15 or Johns Manville R-13) deliver R-3.2 to R-3.8 per inch and are available at virtually every building supply store.
The key limitation of fiberglass in sauna applications is moisture behavior. Fiberglass loses a significant portion of its R-value when it absorbs moisture. If your vapor barrier has any gaps, tears, or poorly sealed penetrations, steam will reach the fiberglass and degrade its performance over time. Wet fiberglass can also support mold growth, which mineral wool resists due to its inorganic composition.
Fiberglass also has a lower melting point than mineral wool—around 1,000°F for the glass fibers themselves, though binder resins start degrading at much lower temperatures (approximately 350-450°F). This isn't usually a problem in standard sauna walls where temperatures behind the vapor barrier stay well below those thresholds, but it means fiberglass should never be used in direct contact with heater installations or chimney surrounds.
If you choose fiberglass, use unfaced batts only. The kraft paper facing found on many residential fiberglass batts is a vapor retarder, not a vapor barrier, and it cannot withstand sauna temperatures. You will install a separate aluminum foil vapor barrier regardless, so the facing serves no purpose and can actually create a problematic double-barrier situation that traps moisture between layers.
Rigid Foam (XPS and Polyiso)
Rigid foam boards, particularly extruded polystyrene (XPS, often the pink or blue boards) and polyisocyanurate (polyiso), offer the highest R-value per inch of any common insulation material. XPS delivers approximately R-5.0 per inch, while polyiso ranges from R-5.7 to R-6.5 per inch (though polyiso performance drops in cold temperatures).
Rigid foam is most commonly used as a supplemental layer on the exterior of sauna wall framing for outdoor builds, or as continuous insulation behind studs in cold-climate installations where maximum R-value is needed. It is excellent at preventing thermal bridging through the studs, which is a significant source of heat loss in any framed wall.
However, rigid foam has temperature limitations that must be respected in sauna construction. XPS has a maximum service temperature of around 165°F, and polyiso boards are generally rated to 250°F. In an indoor sauna wall where the foam is behind mineral wool or fiberglass and separated from the hot room by a vapor barrier and air gap, temperatures at the foam layer remain well within safe range. But rigid foam should never be the primary insulation layer directly behind the interior paneling of a high-temperature traditional sauna.
There are also off-gassing concerns with some foam products at elevated temperatures. While a properly assembled sauna wall keeps the foam layer cool enough to prevent this, it's a consideration that makes many builders prefer mineral wool for the stud cavity and reserve rigid foam for exterior sheathing on outdoor sauna builds.
Quick Comparison Summary
| Property |
Mineral Wool |
Fiberglass |
Rigid Foam (XPS) |
| R-Value per Inch |
R-3.7 – R-4.2 |
R-3.2 – R-3.8 |
R-5.0 |
| Moisture Resistance |
Excellent (hydrophobic) |
Poor (absorbs moisture) |
Good (closed cell) |
| Max Service Temp |
2,000°F+ |
~1,000°F (fibers) |
~165°F |
| Fire Resistance |
Non-combustible |
Non-combustible (fibers) |
Combustible |
| Cost (relative) |
$$ |
$ |
$$–$$$ |
| Best Sauna Use |
Primary cavity insulation |
Budget cavity insulation |
Exterior continuous / supplement |
R-Value Targets by Climate Zone
The amount of insulation you need depends heavily on where your sauna is located and whether it's an indoor or outdoor build. An indoor sauna in a climate-controlled basement needs far less insulation than a freestanding outdoor sauna in Minnesota or Alaska.
The U.S. Department of Energy divides the country into eight climate zones, ranging from Zone 1 (hot-humid, like South Florida and Hawaii) to Zone 7 and 8 (very cold, like northern Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Alaska). While these zones are designed for whole-house energy codes, they provide a useful framework for sauna insulation targets.
Indoor Sauna R-Value Targets
An indoor sauna built inside a conditioned space (a basement, spare bathroom, or converted structure) benefits from the surrounding building envelope already providing some thermal protection. For these builds, the sauna insulation primarily needs to keep heat inside the sauna room and protect the surrounding structure from moisture.
For Zones 1-3 (Southern states, mild climates), R-13 walls and R-19 ceiling is sufficient for indoor builds. A 2x4 wall cavity filled with mineral wool or fiberglass batts achieves this easily.
For Zones 4-5 (Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, Pacific Northwest), R-15 walls and R-22 to R-26 ceiling is recommended. You can achieve this with 2x4 framing and high-density mineral wool batts, or 2x6 framing with standard batts.
For Zones 6-8 (Northern states, mountain regions, Alaska), R-19 to R-21 walls and R-30 ceiling provides optimal performance even in unheated spaces like garages or outbuildings. This generally requires 2x6 wall framing.
Outdoor Sauna R-Value Targets
Outdoor saunas face direct exposure to ambient temperatures, wind, rain, and snow. The insulation requirements are significantly higher, and the wall assembly must account for both inward moisture drive (from the sauna) and outward weather exposure.
For Zones 1-3, R-13 to R-15 walls and R-22 ceiling is typically adequate. Even in warm climates, outdoor saunas lose heat quickly through uninsulated or under-insulated walls because the temperature differential (sauna interior to outdoor ambient) can still exceed 100°F.
For Zones 4-5, R-19 walls and R-30 ceiling provides strong performance. Consider 2x6 framing with mineral wool batts, or 2x4 framing with cavity insulation plus 1-2 inches of exterior rigid foam.
For Zones 6-8, R-21 to R-25 walls and R-38 ceiling ensures your heater doesn't have to work overtime during winter months. A 2x6 wall with mineral wool batts (R-23) plus exterior rigid foam is ideal. This level of insulation dramatically reduces heat-up time and energy consumption, which matters enormously when ambient temperatures are below zero and you're running your sauna multiple times per week.
Why the Ceiling Matters Most
You'll notice that ceiling R-value targets are always higher than wall targets. Heat rises, and the ceiling of your sauna is where the hottest air collects and where the most heat loss occurs. Under-insulating the ceiling is one of the most common mistakes in sauna construction. Your ceiling should always have at least 50% more R-value than your walls, and more is better.
For ceiling insulation, you have the advantage of depth—ceiling joists are typically 2x8 or 2x10, giving you 7.25 to 9.25 inches of cavity space. Fill it completely with mineral wool or fiberglass batts. In cold-climate outdoor saunas, doubling up with two layers of insulation perpendicular to each other eliminates gaps and thermal bridges between joists. To determine the right heater output for your insulated sauna room, use the Sauna Heater Size Calculator, which factors in room volume and insulation quality.
The Vapor Barrier: Why Aluminum Foil Is Non-Negotiable
The vapor barrier is arguably the most critical component of any sauna wall assembly. Without it, moisture from the hot, humid sauna interior migrates into the insulation and wall framing, causing mold, rot, and insulation failure. This is true regardless of which insulation material you use.
In sauna construction, the only appropriate vapor barrier is aluminum foil—specifically, a heavy-duty, sauna-grade aluminum vapor barrier. Standard polyethylene plastic sheeting (6-mil poly) used in residential construction is not acceptable for saunas. Poly sheeting can off-gas at elevated temperatures, has no radiant heat reflective properties, and can degrade and become brittle with repeated thermal cycling.
Why Aluminum Foil Specifically
Aluminum foil serves a dual purpose in sauna construction that no other material can match. First, it acts as a true vapor barrier with a perm rating near zero, meaning virtually no moisture passes through it. Second, it reflects radiant heat energy back into the sauna room. Estimates vary, but a properly installed foil barrier can reflect 95-97% of radiant heat that hits it, meaningfully reducing the thermal load on the insulation behind it and improving energy efficiency.
Aluminum melts at approximately 1,220°F—far above any temperature your sauna wall will ever reach. It does not off-gas, does not support mold growth, and does not degrade with thermal cycling. It is the same material used in sauna construction throughout Finland, where sauna building is backed by centuries of refinement.
Paper-backed aluminum foil is the most common product specified for saunas. The kraft paper backing provides mechanical strength that makes the foil easier to handle, staple, and tape during installation without tearing. Purpose-built sauna vapor barrier products are available in wide rolls sized for efficient wall and ceiling coverage.
Vapor Barrier Installation Best Practices
The vapor barrier must be continuous across all walls and the ceiling, with every seam, penetration, and transition point sealed. Even a small gap allows concentrated moisture to enter the wall cavity—and because the moisture drive in a sauna is so strong, a small leak causes disproportionate damage.
Start with the ceiling and work down to the walls so that wall foil overlaps ceiling foil, creating a shingle effect that sheds any condensation downward. Overlap all seams by at least 2-3 inches and seal them with aluminum foil tape (not standard duct tape, which fails at sauna temperatures). Every penetration for wiring, lighting, or ventilation must be cut carefully and sealed completely with foil tape around the opening.
The foil should be installed on the warm side of the insulation—meaning between the insulation and the interior of the sauna. This is a critical point that sometimes gets confused in construction. The foil goes over the studs and insulation, and the interior tongue-and-groove paneling is then installed over the foil.
The Correct Sauna Wall Assembly Order
Getting the layers in the right order is essential. Each layer serves a specific function, and reversing or skipping any layer compromises the entire system. Here is the correct wall assembly from the outside in for a standard framed sauna wall:
Layer 1: Wall Framing (Studs)
The structural frame of your sauna wall is typically 2x4 lumber for interior builds and 2x6 lumber for outdoor builds or cold-climate applications where higher R-values are needed. Standard 16-inch on-center stud spacing works well for both mineral wool and fiberglass batts, which are manufactured to friction-fit in standard stud bays.
For outdoor saunas, the exterior side of the framing will have sheathing (plywood or OSB), a weather-resistant barrier (like Tyvek housewrap), and exterior cladding. These exterior layers protect the structure from rain and wind but are separate from the interior sauna-specific assembly described here.
Layer 2: Insulation (In the Stud Cavities)
Fill the stud cavities completely with your chosen insulation material. Mineral wool batts are the preferred choice for the reasons discussed above. Press them firmly into the cavity so they fill the entire depth without being compressed. Compressed insulation loses R-value because the trapped air pockets that provide thermal resistance get squeezed out.
Pay special attention to areas around electrical boxes, heater wiring, and any framing transitions. Cut insulation to fit snugly around these obstacles rather than leaving gaps. If you're using our Sauna Wood Calculator to plan your build, you'll have a clear picture of your wall dimensions to help calculate insulation quantities.
Layer 3: Aluminum Foil Vapor Barrier
Once all stud cavities are fully insulated, install the aluminum foil vapor barrier across the entire interior face of the wall (over the studs and insulation). Staple it to the stud faces, keeping the foil as smooth and wrinkle-free as practical. Overlap all seams by 2-3 inches, seal with foil tape, and seal every penetration.
The foil creates the moisture boundary and radiant heat reflector. Everything on the warm side of this foil (toward the sauna interior) will be exposed to sauna conditions. Everything on the cold side (toward the exterior) must stay dry.
Layer 4: Furring Strips (Creating the Air Gap)
This is the step that many builders skip—and it's one of the most important. After the foil vapor barrier is installed, attach horizontal or vertical furring strips (typically 1x2 or 1x3 lumber) to the studs over the foil. These furring strips create a shallow air gap (¾ to 1 inch) between the foil and the interior paneling.
This air gap serves several functions. It allows the reflective foil to work as a radiant barrier—aluminum foil only reflects heat across an air space; if the paneling is pressed directly against the foil, heat conducts through by direct contact rather than being reflected. The air gap also provides a small drainage plane for any condensation that forms on the back of the paneling, preventing moisture from being trapped against the foil. Additionally, the furring strips provide the nailing surface for your tongue-and-groove paneling.
Layer 5: Tongue-and-Groove (T&G) Wood Paneling
The final interior layer is your tongue-and-groove sauna wood paneling, installed over the furring strips. This is the visible surface of your sauna room and should be a wood species appropriate for sauna use—thermo alder, thermo aspen, western red cedar, or hemlock are common choices. You can explore all options in the DIY sauna materials hub.
Install the T&G paneling horizontally or vertically per your design preference. Use stainless steel or galvanized finish nails to prevent rust staining on the wood. The tongue-and-groove joinery creates a tight-fitting surface that retains heat and provides the finished aesthetic of your sauna interior. For help planning the amount of wood you'll need, the Sauna Wood Calculator estimates materials based on your room dimensions.
Complete Assembly Summary: Outside → Inside
For an outdoor sauna, the full wall assembly from exterior to interior is: exterior cladding → weather barrier → sheathing → studs with insulation → aluminum foil vapor barrier → furring strips (air gap) → tongue-and-groove paneling.
For an indoor sauna where the stud wall is built against an existing interior wall, the assembly from the existing wall inward is: existing wall surface → studs with insulation → aluminum foil vapor barrier → furring strips (air gap) → tongue-and-groove paneling.
Ceiling Insulation and Assembly
The ceiling follows the same layer order as the walls: joists with insulation → aluminum foil vapor barrier → furring strips → tongue-and-groove paneling. Because heat rises, the ceiling is the most thermally stressed surface in any sauna, so it deserves extra attention.
Use the deepest joist cavity available and fill it completely with insulation. In cold climates, consider adding a second perpendicular layer of insulation above the joists before the foil barrier. The ceiling vapor barrier is especially critical because hot, moist air rises directly into the ceiling assembly. Double-check that all ceiling foil seams are taped and that the ceiling foil overlaps onto the top of the wall foil to create a continuous envelope.
The ceiling should also be slightly sloped or follow a traditional flat design—avoid vaulted or cathedral ceilings in saunas unless you're prepared to significantly increase ceiling insulation and heater capacity. Higher ceilings dramatically increase the volume your sauna heater must heat and can create uncomfortable temperature stratification. A standard sauna ceiling height of 7 feet is ideal for most residential builds. If you're designing your layout from scratch, our free sauna layout designs can help you plan optimal ceiling heights and bench placement.
Floor Insulation
Floor insulation requirements vary depending on your sauna's location. An indoor sauna on a concrete slab or above a heated basement needs minimal floor insulation—the floor is the coolest surface in the sauna and actually provides a welcome cool zone for your feet. A simple waterproof membrane over concrete with sauna-specific flooring on top is usually sufficient.
For outdoor saunas, especially those on raised foundations, pier blocks, or in cold climates, floor insulation makes a meaningful difference. Insulate the floor joist cavities with mineral wool batts to at least R-19 and install a vapor barrier on the warm side (top side of the insulation, below the floor decking). This prevents cold air from pulling heat down through the floor and keeps the sauna's lower bench level comfortable.
One important note: sauna floors should never be carpeted or use standard hardwood flooring. They need to handle water, heat, and foot traffic. Duckboard-style removable floor grates, composite decking rated for sauna use, or sealed concrete are the best options.
Ventilation and Insulation: Working Together
No discussion of sauna insulation is complete without addressing ventilation. Proper sauna ventilation ensures fresh air circulation, prevents stale air buildup, and actually helps your insulation system work correctly by managing moisture levels inside the room.
A standard sauna ventilation setup includes a fresh air intake vent positioned low on the wall near the heater and an exhaust vent positioned higher on the opposite wall. The intake brings in fresh air that the heater warms, and the exhaust allows used air to exit. This creates natural convection that circulates air throughout the room.
When installing sauna vents, each vent penetration through the insulated wall must be carefully sealed around its perimeter with foil tape. The vent itself should have an operable damper so you can control airflow. During sessions, partially open vents allow air exchange. After sessions, fully open vents help the sauna dry out quickly, which protects your wood and insulation from prolonged moisture exposure.
Common Insulation Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced general contractors make mistakes when insulating saunas because the requirements differ significantly from standard residential construction. Here are the most common errors and how to avoid them.
Using Polyethylene Sheeting Instead of Aluminum Foil
This is the single most common and most damaging mistake. Standard 6-mil poly vapor barrier from the hardware store is designed for standard residential temperatures—not sauna conditions. Polyethylene can off-gas at temperatures above 140°F, becomes brittle with thermal cycling, and provides zero radiant heat reflection. Always use aluminum foil vapor barrier in a sauna. There is no acceptable substitute.
Skipping the Air Gap Between Foil and Paneling
Nailing tongue-and-groove paneling directly to the studs over the foil is tempting because it saves time and materials. But without the air gap, the foil cannot function as a radiant barrier (it needs an air space to reflect heat), and moisture that condenses on the back of the paneling has nowhere to go except to sit against the foil and potentially find its way through seams. Furring strips are inexpensive and easy to install—never skip them.
Compressing Insulation
When insulation batts are compressed to fit a space that's too shallow, the R-value drops proportionally. A batt rated at R-15 in a 3.5-inch cavity does not deliver R-15 if you squish it into a 2-inch space. Use insulation that matches your stud depth. If you need to run wiring or plumbing through the stud cavity, cut channels in the insulation rather than compressing the entire batt.
Not Insulating the Ceiling Adequately
Many DIY builders match the ceiling insulation to the wall insulation and call it done. Since the hottest air is at the ceiling, heat loss through an under-insulated ceiling dramatically increases heat-up time and forces your heater to run harder and longer. As discussed earlier, your ceiling R-value should always exceed your wall R-value by at least 50%.
Leaving Gaps Around Penetrations
Every wire, light fixture, vent, and speaker hole that passes through your insulated wall or ceiling is a potential failure point. A 1-inch gap around a wire penetration may seem trivial, but in a high-temperature, high-humidity sauna environment, that gap will channel moisture into the wall cavity with remarkable efficiency. Seal every single penetration with aluminum foil tape. If your sauna includes lighting or audio speakers, plan these penetrations before you install the vapor barrier so you can seal them properly.
Using Faced Insulation in Sauna Walls
Kraft-faced or foil-faced fiberglass batts from the home center already have a vapor retarder attached. In sauna construction, you're installing a separate, continuous aluminum foil vapor barrier. If you also leave the kraft facing on the batts, you create two vapor-retarding layers with insulation between them. Moisture that gets between these layers has no way to dry in either direction, which leads to trapped condensation and eventual mold. Use unfaced batts only and rely on your continuous foil barrier as the sole vapor control layer.
Ignoring Thermal Bridging Through Studs
Wood studs have an R-value of approximately R-1.25 per inch—significantly less than the insulation between them. In a 2x4 wall insulated to R-15 in the cavities, the actual whole-wall R-value (accounting for studs at 16" on center) is closer to R-12 to R-13. For outdoor saunas in cold climates, adding a continuous layer of rigid foam on the exterior of the stud wall breaks these thermal bridges and can add R-5 to R-10 depending on foam thickness.
Not Extending Insulation Behind the Heater Wall
The wall directly behind your sauna heater takes the most thermal abuse. Some builders reduce insulation in this area to accommodate wiring or because they're concerned about heat damage. In reality, this is the wall that needs the most insulation. Use mineral wool here (never foam), ensure the vapor barrier is intact, and maintain proper clearances between the heater and combustible surfaces as specified by the heater manufacturer. You can find detailed heater placement and clearance guidance in our sauna heater sizing guide.
Special Considerations for Outdoor Saunas
Outdoor saunas face challenges that indoor builds don't. The wall assembly must resist weather from the outside while managing extreme heat and moisture from the inside. This dual-directional environmental stress makes proper insulation and vapor management even more critical.
For outdoor builds, always include a weather-resistant barrier (like Tyvek housewrap) on the exterior side of the sheathing to prevent rain and wind-driven moisture from entering the wall cavity from outside. On the interior side, the aluminum foil vapor barrier prevents sauna moisture from entering the wall from inside. Between these two layers, the insulation stays dry from both directions.
Outdoor saunas in Zones 5 and above should seriously consider the "continuous insulation + cavity insulation" approach: fill the stud cavities with mineral wool and add 1-2 inches of rigid foam board (XPS or polyiso) on the exterior of the sheathing, underneath the cladding. This eliminates thermal bridging through the studs and significantly improves whole-wall R-value. For a complete guide to outdoor sauna planning, including material selection and site preparation, see our indoor vs. outdoor sauna comparison guide.
Insulation for Barrel and Pre-Built Saunas
If you're purchasing a pre-built or barrel sauna rather than building from scratch, the insulation is typically handled by the manufacturer. However, it's worth understanding what to look for. Many barrel saunas rely on thick wood walls (1.5 to 2+ inches of solid wood) for thermal mass rather than traditional cavity insulation. This works reasonably well in moderate climates but can lead to longer heat-up times and higher energy consumption in cold environments.
Premium outdoor saunas and cabin-style models from brands like SaunaLife and Auroom use thermally modified wood with insulated wall panels that include foil vapor barriers—essentially pre-assembling the correct wall stack for you. Indoor models like our indoor sauna collection are designed with appropriate insulation for their intended environment.
How Proper Insulation Affects Heater Sizing
There's a direct relationship between insulation quality and the heater size your sauna needs. A well-insulated sauna room heats up faster, holds temperature more consistently, and can be served by a smaller heater than a poorly insulated room of the same dimensions.
When calculating heater size, uninsulated surfaces (glass doors, glass windows, concrete walls, stone) add effective cubic footage to the room because the heater must compensate for the heat loss through those surfaces. A well-insulated wall is essentially "invisible" to the heater sizing calculation, while a poorly insulated wall acts like a heat sink that constantly pulls energy away from the room.
This is why insulation investment pays for itself over time. A sauna with proper insulation may need a 6kW heater where a poorly insulated room of the same size requires an 8kW or 9kW unit. The smaller heater costs less to buy, draws less electricity, and puts less strain on your electrical system. Use our Electric Sauna Heater Size Calculator to see exactly how your insulation and room characteristics affect the recommended heater output, and then browse our complete electric sauna heater collection to find the right match.
Getting Started With Your Build
Proper insulation isn't the most glamorous part of building a sauna—but it's the part that determines whether your sauna will perform well for decades or become a money pit of energy waste and structural repairs. Take the time to choose the right insulation material for your climate and build type, hit the correct R-value targets for your walls and ceiling, install a continuous aluminum foil vapor barrier with all seams and penetrations sealed, and maintain the air gap between foil and paneling.
If you're planning a custom build and need help with layout, materials, and component selection, our custom sauna materials hub has everything from wood and benches to doors, lighting, and accessories. We also offer a free design service to help you plan your perfect sauna from the ground up.
For those who'd prefer a ready-to-assemble solution with insulation already engineered in, explore our outdoor sauna collection and indoor sauna collection for pre-built options from the best brands in the industry.
*Haven Of Heat and its affiliates do not provide medical, legal, electrical, building, financial, or professional advice. All content published on this website is for general informational and educational purposes only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for advice from qualified professionals. Always consult a licensed medical provider regarding health-related questions, and consult licensed contractors, electricians, inspectors, or local authorities for installation, electrical, building code, zoning, HOA, or safety requirements.
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